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Secrets for Fishing the Rock Jig
by Jim Moynagh
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- The basic retrieve when fishing the Rock Jig is that of a drag and pause fished slowly and methodically. To cover water, use longer drags and shorter pauses; but when a fish is caught or prime bottom is felt, shorten the drag and extend the pause. Slowing down in this fashion will trigger many strikes that refuse a hurried approach.
- "Rock” the jig in place by nudging it against individual rocks using soft and short, temporary pulls with the rod. The rock will prevent the jig from moving forward as the jig pivots on its head. This causes the jig’s trailer to raise up, simulating the defensive posture of crawdads.
- When fishing sand and small gravel, use long casts and retrieve the jig with your rod tip held near the water’s surface. This will enhance the jig’s action and better maintain bottom "feel".
- When fishing larger rocks and boulders, fish the jig more vertical by using shorter casts and retrieving the jig with your rod tip held high. This will reduce your chances of snagging the jig in a crevice.
- If the jig snags, often it can be jiggled free using the jig’s own weight. Simply position yourself directly over the jig and shake your rod tip on a semi-slack line. The weight of the jig eventually causes it to fall from its stuck position. If it still hasn’t come free, move yourself to an angle where you’ll be pulling from the opposite direction that the jig originally became snagged.
- \Most strikes occur as the jig sits motionless; the bass noses down on the Rock Jig, closing to within a few inches of the bait. Then, the bass violently vacuums the jig from the rocks. Once in the secure clutches of its jaws, the bass mouths and crunches the jig believing it is killing its meal. The bass may or may not slowly swim off while crunching. Although the strike is a fierce action, the sensation at the rod tip is not. Typically the feel is similar to that of a very hard, nibbling bluegill or simply a complete loss of feel and sensation at the other end. Strike detection is tricky, but will improve as you tune-in to the feel of the Rock Jig with repeated use.
- When choosing between monofilament or the new, no-stretch lines for Rock Jig fishing, use the same line that you use for Carolina-rigging. You want the feel between these two techniques to be equal because they are both bottom-feeling techniques. Be sure to stick with just one type of line which ever you choose.
- Heavier line (14 to 25#) is better suited for the Rock Jig due to the beating it takes from the rocks. Also, heavy line can deliver greater punch at the hook point. A hard set by the angler is necessary.
- To further aid hook setting power at the hook’s point, use a medium-heavy to heavy rod at least 6 1/2 feet long. The long rod compensates for line stretch (not a problem for braided line) and also for those occasions when a large amount of slack is created by a bass that swims towards the boat after vacuuming the jig off the bottom.
- Be sure to have a marker buoy ready for use. Because the fish will school in such a tight area, you’ll want to make repeated, duplicate casts after catching the first one. The buoy is a tremendous aid in maintaining an exact position.
- Visually check the line and knot for abrasions caused by the rocky terrain. Also "pop" the line with your hands to test the knot by holding the jig in one hand and tugging the line with the other. Even though the Rock Jigs recessed eye reduces knot damage, these are wise precautionary measures.
- Check the hook’s point frequently. Despite the Rock Jigs unique head design that keeps the hook pointing up, it is inevitable that the point will scrape a rock, decreasing its sharpness.
- To extend the life of the trailer, use glue to adhere the plastic body to the jig.
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